Often, photographers who are considering the graduation from natural-light-only photography to the addition of artificial light into the mix will feel intimidated by the notion. In this article on lighting for pet photography, we’re here to show you that there’s no need — using flash can be easy.
When you’re first getting started, using a dyed-in-the-wool, battle-tested modifier is helpful to start the next chapter with encouraging results. For fans of photographer royalty Annie Leibovitz, Photek’s Softlighter II is that modifier.
The Photek Softlighter II delivers soft, painterly light in a highly portable, versatile, and relatively inexpensive package. It is a convertible bounce umbrella (the black backing can be removed for a shoot-through setup) that includes a diffusion cover, and it acts similarly to a large, shallow octabox while retaining a light quality all its own. Here we’ll walk you through one way to use a simple one-light setup to capture pet portraits in your home.
Pet Photography Lighting: At a Glance
This guide covers a complete one-light pet portrait setup using the Photek Softlighter II, from gear selection to camera settings and real-world shooting tips.
- The Gear – Full equipment list with links
- The Lighting Setup – Softlighter placement and modifier tips
- Camera Settings – ISO, shutter speed, aperture explained
- The Photos – Behind-the-scenes notes and final results
- Frequently Asked Questions – Common pet photography lighting questions
The Gear Used In This Pet Photography Session
- Canon 5D Mark III
- Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II
- Canon 600EX-RT Speedlite
- PocketWizard Plus X (x2)
- 46″ Photek Softlighter II
- Light Stand
- Speedlight Mount with Umbrella Holder
- Sheet of Fleece from Craft Store
- Couch
- Capture One Pro
The Lighting Setup
With small pets, couches make a simple and effective backdrop solution. Most people have one at home, and draping fabric over the back and seat creates a comfortable surface for your subject that looks clean and elegant in photos. Elevating the pet above ground also slightly reduces their mobility, which buys the photographer a bit more time to grab the shot. A black piece of fleece fabric was used for this session.
Using a speedlight mounted to a light stand via an umbrella holder, a Canon 600EX-RT was placed inside the Photek Softlighter II with the diffuser panel attached. A PocketWizard Plus X plugged into the speedlight’s sync port triggered it wirelessly via a second PocketWizard mounted in the camera’s hot shoe.
The Softlighter II was placed close to the subject, roughly 2 feet away, and positioned nearly on-axis with the camera. It was angled slightly downward so the light struck the front and top of the subject while spilling naturally onto the backdrop behind. Keeping the modifier this close is key to achieving that soft, wrapping quality — the larger the light source appears relative to the subject, the softer the shadows and transitions will be.
Why the Softlighter II Works So Well for Pets
The Softlighter II is a particularly good choice for pet photography because of how forgiving it is. Its large, enveloping light source wraps around a subject’s features smoothly, minimizing harsh shadows that might otherwise obscure fur texture or facial detail. Because it collapses into a compact carry bag, it’s also easy to set up and tear down quickly, which matters when you’re working with an animal that has a limited attention span. The modifier’s near-on-axis placement in this setup also reduces unflattering double-catch-light issues that can occur when light sources are positioned at extreme angles.
The Camera Settings
The settings used were ISO 100, 1/125 sec, 70mm, f/2.8, with the flash set to 1/8 power.
ISO 100 was chosen to keep noise to an absolute minimum. Since the flash was providing sufficient light at this power level, there was no need to push the sensor sensitivity higher.
The shutter speed of 1/125 sec was chosen deliberately. It sits below the camera’s flash sync speed of 1/200 sec, which prevents the rolling shutter artifact (the dark band) that appears if you exceed sync speed. It also eliminates ambient light contamination from the room’s existing sources, keeping the exposure fully controlled by the flash.
A focal length of 70mm was selected as the most flattering option available on the 24-70mm lens for a close-up portrait. A wider focal length can produce a fun, caricature-like distortion on a pet’s face, but the goal here was a more natural, polished look, so the long end of the zoom was the right call.
The Case For and Against Shooting Wide Open
The f/2.8 aperture was selected for a couple of reasons. First, a wide aperture allows the speedlight to operate at a lower power level, which shortens recycle time. When working with animals, faster recycle times mean fewer missed shots between bursts. Second, the shallow depth of field softens the improvised fabric backdrop, smoothing out any wrinkles or shifts in the material so they read as gentle texture rather than a distraction.
That said, shooting wide open with pets does come with trade-offs. Many animals have noses that protrude significantly further than their eyes, and at f/2.8 that nose can fall noticeably out of focus. Whether that looks charming or sloppy depends on the individual pet and the desired aesthetic. There’s also the autofocus factor: at maximum aperture, the focus plane is razor thin, and a moving animal can slip in and out of it faster than any autofocus system can track. If you’d prefer sharper results throughout, stopping down to f/4 or f/5.6 is a reasonable adjustment. Just remember that closing the aperture means you’ll need to compensate by increasing flash power, raising ISO, or both.
The Photos
A stand-in stuffed dog was used to test and fine-tune the lighting before the real subject arrived on set. During that test phase, the 100mm f/2.8L was tried initially, as it’s a more flattering portrait focal length than 70mm, but its autofocus proved too slow in the low ambient light of the room against a dark background. The idea was scrapped in favor of the 24-70mm f/2.8 for its much faster and more reliable focus acquisition.
Whenever possible, get your lighting dialed in before the subject arrives on set — especially with pets. There will likely be small adjustments to make once you see how the light interacts with the actual animal’s coat and coloring, but having a solid baseline saves precious time and attention.
The model, Biggs, was moderately cooperative. He was pretty laid-back, which worked in the shoot’s favor, but his attention span was limited and most of the stronger shots came from the first few minutes before he started losing interest. He wasn’t motivated by treats, but responded well to a squeaky toy and some well-timed silly noises. Toward the end of the session, he kept trying to climb into my assistant’s lap or hop off the couch to investigate the unfamiliar setup, and the tricks at my disposal weren’t quite enticing enough to keep him engaged.
After working through this setup, you may find yourself wanting to reach for a Softlighter II or finally dust off one you already own. Even if pet photography isn’t your primary focus, this is a fantastic modifier for portraits of any kind. Just ask Annie.
Frequently Asked Questions About Pet Photography Lighting
What is the best light modifier for pet photography?
A large, soft modifier like the Photek Softlighter II or a comparable octabox works well for pet portraits because it produces soft, wrapping light that flatters fur textures and minimizes harsh shadows. The key is using a modifier that’s large relative to your subject and placing it close enough to maximize its softness.
Will flash scare or hurt my pet?
Most pets adapt to flash quickly, particularly when it’s fired at a modest power level. Running a few test pops before bringing your animal on set lets them hear and see the flash without the pressure of being photographed, which helps reduce any startle response. Using a diffused modifier also scatters the light, making the burst less visually jarring than a bare flash.
What camera settings should I use for pet portraits with flash?
A good starting point is ISO 100, a shutter speed at or below your camera’s sync speed (typically 1/200 sec or lower), and an aperture between f/2.8 and f/5.6 depending on how much depth of field you want. Set your flash to manual mode and start at 1/8 power, then adjust based on your test shots. Keeping the ISO low and letting the flash do the work gives you clean, controlled results.
How do I keep a pet still during a photo session?
Elevating your pet on a couch or low platform helps reduce their range of movement slightly without causing stress. Have a helper on hand to get the animal’s attention using squeaky toys, treats, or sounds just before you fire the shutter. Working quickly matters too — most pets have a short window of engagement before losing interest, so the more you can prepare in advance, the more usable frames you’ll capture.
Do I need expensive gear to get started with pet photography flash setups?
Not at all. A single speedlight, a basic light stand, and an affordable umbrella modifier are enough to produce professional-looking results. The Photek Softlighter II is a relatively modest investment for the quality of light it produces, and inexpensive radio triggers like the PocketWizard Plus X are widely available. A piece of fleece fabric from any craft store rounds out a complete studio-style setup for very little cost.
