Why Use a Rim Light

Using a rim light adds depth and dimension to your images. Without it, your subject can appear flat or blend into the background, especially in low-key setups. The goal is to highlight the subject’s shape and create a clear separation from the background, especially when the background is dark or similarly toned.

Here are a few key reasons photographers love rim lighting:

• Separation: Helps your subject stand out from the background.

• Shape definition: Highlights contours, which is especially useful in fitness or fashion photography.

• Mood enhancement: Adds drama and a cinematic feel to portraits.

• Visual interest: Creates a professional, polished look.

Rim lighting is commonly used in:

• Portrait photography

• Studio photography

• Cinematography

• Product photography

• Fitness and athletic imagery

The rim light is typically not the main light (or “key light”), but rather an accent light that sculpts the edges of the subject.  The actual light source can be a flash or natural light.

How to Set Up a Rim Light

Setting up a rim light is fairly simple once you understand the positioning:

1. Position the Light Behind the Subject

Place the light slightly behind and to the side of your subject. This angle allows the light to catch the edges of the subject’s body or face, creating that glowing rim.  The light source can either be visible in the frame or just outside of the frame depending on your desired composition.

2. Modify the Light (If Necessary)

To control the shape and direction of your rim light, consider using modifiers like a gridded softbox or snoot for a narrow, focused beam. These help prevent light spill and keep the rim clean and defined. That said, a bare bulb or unmodified strobe often works well too—since rim lighting doesn’t typically need to be softened, hard light can enhance the edge definition and create a more dramatic effect.

3. Control the Exposure

Your rim light should be brighter than the ambient background, but not so bright that it overpowers the subject or causes lens flare, unless of course that’s your creative intention.  A good rule of thumb for your rim light is to set your rim light about 1 to 2 stops brighter than your key light.

Rim Light vs Back Light vs Hair Light

All three of these terms are often used interchangeably but have subtle differences:

• Rim Light: Specifically outlines the edges of a subject, often wrapping around the body.

• Back Light: Comes from directly behind the subject and may not create a visible rim unless angled correctly.

• Hair Light: A type of rim light that specifically highlights the hair and top of the head in portraits.

Example – Bounce Flash With Rim Lighting

Of the choices given thus far for lighting first and family dances, using a bounce flash with rims is the least ideal, but it will still get the job done. This setup only takes two to three minutes and requires two light stands, but it can not be used in any scene/location. A bright neutral ceiling is needed so that the light has something to bounce off of.

More often than not, when bouncing light, you’ll need to set your flash to ¼-⅛ power. Here are some key tips for using this style of lighting:

1. Place OCF rims evenly (distance/height)
2. OCF rims should be set to equal power and zoom
3. When moving, toggle off unwanted lights
4. On-camera battery pack will shorten the recycle time between flashes

Note: If spot lighting includes a strong color (such as using a magenta gel, for example), you’ll need to override the coloring with a stronger power setting on your on-camera flash.

You can also turn the on-camera flash off and use only the two rim lights to capture moodier images, but timing and positioning becoming very important for capturing deliverable images. Beware of the subjects’ angle (facing the camera, for example), or else the light that falls across their faces may be split and less flattering. This is a go-to in situations when the batteries run out of power in the on-camera flash.