In this video from our Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD, we will discuss how we can use the Develop Module Menu System in Lightroom 4 if you forget any keyboard shortcuts.

(Note: the menu system (except for the File Menu and the Edit Menu) at the top of Lightroom changes a bit when you switch from module to module. For example, if we switch to the Map Module (“Ctrl + Alt + 3”) from the Develop Module (“D”), we will still see the same options for the File and Edit Menus.)

Watch the video or continue reading the article below!

Watch the Video

The Develop Module Menu System

As mentioned earlier, the File and Edit Menus are constant throughout all of the modules in Lightroom 4. In the Develop Module, we then have the Develop, Photo, Settings, and Tools Menus.

In the Library Module there are a few options that you can only access through the Library Menu System, however the Develop Module is an extensive duplication of everything available in the interface. When you have mastered the interface and memorized your frequently used shortcuts within the Develop Module, you will probably rarely visit the Develop Module Menu again. For example, if we select the Develop Menu from the Develop Module Menu System, we have options to create snapshots, presets and preset folders, to clear the history, and so forth. However, we can do all of this either by using the keyboard shortcuts or by simply right-clicking and selecting the option from the dropdown menu.

Forgot Shortcuts?

If you forgot the keyboard shortcut for a certain option in Lightroom 4, there are 2 ways to access these shortcuts via the Develop Module Menu System.

#1: Develop Module Dropdown Menus
If you forget a shortcut, you can always look through the menus in the Develop Module and it will list the keyboard shortcuts that are available.

#2: Shortcuts Dialogue Box
Another way to reference shortcuts is through the Shortcuts Dialogue Box. Select the Help Menu and click on “Develop Module Shortcuts.” This will bring up the Develop Shortcuts Dialogue Box. (You can also press “Ctrl + \” to bring up this same dialogue box.)

This shortcut is the exact same for every module in Lightroom 4. For example, if we want to see the shortcuts in the Library Module, simply press “Ctrl + /” while we are in the Library Module.

Conclusion & Learn More!

Once again, if you have memorized your frequently used shortcuts, there is no point in going up to the menu system and accessing the options there since everything for the Develop Module is available through the interface and keyboard shortcuts. However, if you forget any of the keyboard shortcuts, know that the Develop Module Menu System is helpful for referencing keyboard shortcuts.

We hope you enjoyed this article and video excerpt from the Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD. Stay tuned for our next article and episode!

The Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD is a 14 hour video workshop turning any Lightroom novice into a complete master of Lightroom 4 in no time! The Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop can be purchased by itself, or within the Lightroom 4 Workshop Collection which also contains our award winning and industry standard Lightroom 4 Preset System, as well as the Lightroom 4 Workflow System.

The post The Develop Module Menu System in Lightroom 4: 2 Tips if You Forget Shortcuts – From the Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD appeared first on Free Photography Tips Tutorials Reviews and Wordpress Themes.

Technical details

Camera: Canon EOS 5D MkII
Lens: Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens
ISO: 1000
Aperture: f/3.2
Shutter: 1/100

Before & after

Credits

Photo: Lauri Laukkanen Photography
Concept creator & model: Jen Brook
HMUA & model: Donna Graham Mua
Assistant: Richard Powazynski Photography

The post PS: “The New Wave Is Coming” | Tuesdays With Lauri appeared first on Free Photography Tips Tutorials Reviews and Wordpress Themes.

Introduction

In our previous tutorial, “Horseshoe Bend: Adobe Photoshop Layer Blending,” we demonstrated how to use a Layer Mask and the Graduated Filter Tool to blend the two different processed images in Adobe Photoshop, one RAW single exposure and one HDR image created in Photomatix Pro.

In this final tutorial, we are now going to apply the finishing touches to that merged PSD image file, to create the final HDR shot of Horseshoe Bend (Page, Arizona) pictured below. We will be doing the final image processing inside of Lightroom 4. In addition, we will also demonstrate how to create a black and white version of the shot below.

Watch the Video

CR2 File vs. PSD File

Below, we have the original RAW CR2 file and the merged PSD file. In the PSD file, we have used the HDR image from Photomatix to preserve the highlights in the sky, which we demonstrated in our “Horseshoe Bend: Adobe Photoshop Layer Blending” tutorial.

When shooting HDR photography, having a camera that can capture more stops of light is extremely useful because the camera can capture more dynamic range. For example, if we have a camera that can capture 14 stops of light, then a perfectly exposed image might actually be able to capture this entire tonal range within that scene! If we can capture all of the tonal range in one single shot, this makes processing much easier since we do not have to go through the whole HDR processing technique. Instead, we can just “tone map” it, using a single-shot HDR. Although cameras that can capture more tonal range are nice to have, they are not a necessity.

How to Edit the PSD File in Lightroom

We will be making our final editing touches to the PSD file, so make sure you have that file selected. After you have selected the PSD file, press “D” to jump into the Develop Module of Lightroom 4.

Applying Presets
First, we are going to apply the “HDR Light” preset from the Presets Panel (“Ctrl + Shift + 1”) to the PSD file. By doing so, we are actually re-processing the HDR with the HDR effect. However, even with the lightest HDR effect applied, it is still too powerful. This gives us our starting point but it will  need more work to be perfect.

Below is our image with the HDR Light Preset applied.

The Detail Panel
After we have applied the HDR Light Preset, the first thing that we need to do is fix the detail in our image. Expand the Detail Panel (“Ctrl + 5”) and reduce both Sharpening and Noise Reduction back down to zero.

The Lens Corrections Panel
Then, expand the Lens Corrections Panel (“Ctrl + 6”) and reset Lens Vignetting back down to zero as well.  Both of these settings were already applied to our image, so we don’t need them.

The Basic Panel
Next, we are going to make some adjustments in the Basic Panel (“Ctrl + 1”). To give our image a moody tone, darken the image by bringing Exposure down to -0.10. Then, reduce Contrast down to zero. Next, tweak the Highlights down to -80, the Shadows to +30, the Whites to -80 and the Blacks to +30. Finally, bring Clarity down to +20.

Below is what our image currently looks like with these adjustments in the Basic Panel.

The Graduated Filter Tool – Contrast Adjustments
Since the rock at the bottom left corner of the image is so close to the camera, there is a lot of contrast whereas the rocks further back in the image do not have as much contrast. To fix this, we are going to use the Graduated Filter Tool (press “M”) to create a negative Contrast Brush.

This will create a more natural transition between the high contrast and low contrast areas of the image when we drag the brush up from the bottom. After you have selected the Graduated Filter Tool, select “Contrast” from the dropdown menu.

Next, set the Contrast of the brush at -60 so that the effect blends in a bit better. Below is our image with the Graduated Filter Tool with Contrast at -60 applied. As mentioned earlier, we are going to drag the brush up from the bottom of the image.

Back to the Basic Panel
Now that we have adjusted the high and low contrast areas of the image, we are going to make overall Contrast adjustments in the Basic Panel again (“Ctrl + 1”). These adjustments will affect from the midpoint all the way up to the foreground objects in the image. Bring Contrast up to +15 and bring Shadows down to +20. Next, bring Blacks down to +25 and bring Clarity up to +30. Be careful not to bring Clarity up too high as your image will start to look very unnatural.

Below is our image with the new adjustments we made in the Basic Panel.

The Graduated Filter Tool – Sky Filter
Next, select the Graduated Filter Tool (“M”) again because we will be adding more detail to the sky in our image. Select “Sky | Cloud | Ocean” from the dropdown menu.

To make the effect a little more subtle, bring Exposure down to -0.33. Next, bring Contrast down to 10, Highlights to 10, Shadows to -10, Clarity to 15 and Saturation to zero. Finally, set Sharpness at 10 and leave the remaining settings at zero. We do not want too much of an effect since this shot already has a really nice sky to begin with.

Now, simply drag the brush down from the top of the image.

Back to the Lens Corrections Panel
Double check your image for fringing and make sure everything looks good. Next, we are going to go back into the Lens Corrections Panel (“Ctrl + 6”) to add in a subtle Vignette to slightly darken the edges of the image. Bring Amount up to -10 and Midpoint to 15.

Making Comparisons

Now that we have finished editing our final HDR image of Horseshoe Bend, let’s take a look at the blended and original images.

Blended Version vs. Edited Version
The before version of the image, straight from Adobe Photoshop, is on the left. As we can see, the before version is quite flat when compared to the edited version on the right.

Original Image vs. Edited Image
Next, we need to take a look at the original image and compare our final edited image to see if we like it.

Applying the Final Touches

We need to compare the final edited HDR image with the original image to see if we need to make some final adjustments to the HDR image.

Fixing Overall Saturation
When we compare the original image with the final edited image, there is actually a little bit too much saturation overall in the final HDR image. Therefore, we need to go back to the Basic Panel (“Ctrl + 1”) to make some adjustments. Pull Contrast down to +5 and bring Vibrance down to -5 as well.

Fixing Temperature
Next, we need to check the Temperature with the original RAW file. If you want to go with a certain tone for the image, you would make adjustments to the Temperature. For our image, we will set Temperature at +3 to give us a little more warmth and yellow in our image. Temperature adjustments come out quite strong in images so make sure you do not overdo them, but of course they are going to be slightly subjective

Fixing the Graduated Sky Filter
Finally, we are going to reduce the effect we applied to the sky with the Graduated Filter Tool (press “M”). We want to make a subtle effect with this enhancer, so bring Exposure down to -0.13. Set Contrast at 7, Highlights at 8, Shadows at -10, Clarity at 7, and Saturation at zero. Next, set Sharpness at zero and leave the remaining settings at zero.

This is our final HDR image of Horseshoe Bend, taken in Page, Arizona.

How to Create a Black and White Version

To create a black and white version of this same shot, first create a virtual copy by pressing (Ctrl + ’). Next, convert the image to black and white by pressing “V.” With black and white images, we always need to add a little more exposure and contrast to the image. Therefore, go into the Basic Panel (“Ctrl + 1”) and bring Exposure up to +0.43 and bring Contrast up to +25. Highlights are at -80, Shadows at -10, Whites at -80 and Blacks at -5. Finally, set Clarity to +30.

To create a more dramatic look to our black and white image, select the Sky Filter that we previously applied to our image. Increase the burns by bringing Exposure down to -0.69.

Below is our final black and white HDR image of Horseshoe Bend.

Conclusion & Learn More!

If you check the histogram (“Ctrl + zero”) of our final HDR image, we still have all of the tonal range, which is good. If you want to, you can pull down Temperature in the final color HDR image – this is more preference at this point. When you compare your final HDR image with the blended PSD file, you can see that we have retained a lot of detail in the final image, especially in the sky.

We hope you have enjoyed this final tutorial on creating our final HDR image of Horseshoe Bend in Page, Arizona!

For more HDR education, be sure to check out HDR Photography | A 3 DVD Comprehensive Guide to Mastering Professional HDR Photography by SLR Lounge. This comprehensive “gold standard” guide will give you a mastery of HDR photography, from the scene considerations to the actual shooting to the post production. Click here for more info.

The post Horseshoe Bend: Final Image Processing in Lightroom 4 – From the HDR Photography Workshop Series appeared first on Free Photography Tips Tutorials Reviews and Wordpress Themes.

The First and The Last

The very first photo shoot of the tour also became the last image to be released. But we are definitely glad we waited. The photo was based around Belgium Retouch Artist Chester Van Bommel. I can only image the pressure of retouching a portrait of a professional retoucher. It is a fine art that goes far beyond technical skills of the average Photoshop user.

“I learned through this process that it wasn’t about the new techniques, about which buttons to click. What really mattered was the vision behind it. As a creative, you want people to hire you because you are an artist, not because you are a technician.” ~ Von Wong

Behind the Scenes – Bringing Dreams to Life | The Mind of a Retoucher

Setup and Post-Processing Retouch

The more work done in camera during the photo shoot, the better chance you will be able to realize the image during the post-processing phase.

When shooting a large space, avoid distortion created by wide-angle lenses by stitching together several shots using a prime lens. For this image, Von Wong used a Nikkor 50mm f1.8 on a tripod with his Nikon D700 . This allowed the vastness of the space to be communicated without making it look malformed.

When a space has a lot of natural lighting, from say – missing a roof, additional lighting can be accomplished fairly easily. Here you see a pair of speed lights in a soft box as a backlight and an umbrella as front fill to light the subject. Additional frames were taken without the subject with the speed lights on the floor to light the arches for more definition and depth.

But that is only the beginning. After 60 hours of retouch work and a massive 8Gb+ Photoshop file, the concept was built piece by piece, literally. The results – dreamlike.

To see more from this photo shoot, click here.

For the Gear Heads

Nikon D700
Nikkor 50mm f1.8
SIRUI T-2205X (Lovinpix.com)
Pixel Pawn
Explorer Mini Battery Pack by Innovatronix
SB-900
SB-700

Photography and Retouch: Von Wong and Chester Van Bommel from Artsome
Video: Erwan Cloarec – Visuals

Until Next Time . . .

Stay Inspired ~ Jules

CREDITS: Photographs by Von Wong have been used with permission for SLR Lounge. Do not copy, modify or re-post this article or images without express permission from SLR Lounge and the artist.

The post Behind the Scenes | Retouch Art and Bringing Dreams to Life with Von Wong appeared first on Free Photography Tips Tutorials Reviews and Wordpress Themes.

In this video from our Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD, we will demonstrate how to use the Sync and Auto Sync functions to batch process images in Lightroom 4.

Batch processing is essentially copying settings from one image and then applying those same settings onto other images in the catalog. Batch processing can save you a lot of time in post production, allowing you to spend more time behind your camera!

Watch the video and continue reading the article below.

Watch the Video

How to Select Multiple Images

First, select an image to use for this tutorial and make some significant adjustments to it. For our example, we will make some adjustments in the Basic Panel (press “Ctrl + 1” to expand this panel). Next, we are going to make a selection of images in our catalog. Hold down “Shift” on your keyboard and click on the last image of your selection to make a selection order. If you want to select non-sequenced images, then hold down “Ctrl” on your keyboard and then click on each individual image. For this tutorial, we will simply hold down “Shift” and select the first 5 images in the filmstrip of our catalog.

Once we have selected multiple images in our catalog, the bottom right panel button of Lightroom has changed (we still have the Reset button). Now, we have the options for Sync or Auto Sync.

To enable Auto Sync, flip up the switch next to Sync. Once you flip up the switch, the Auto Sync Button will appear. The Auto Sync and Sync buttons do different things, which we will discuss in the next sections of this tutorial.

The Sync Button

First, flip the switch back down to turn off Auto Sync. Once you flip the switch down, the Sync Button will appear again. When you click on the Sync Button, this will bring up the Synchronize Settings Dialogue Box. Here, you can choose exactly which settings you want. First, click on “Check None” at the bottom left of the dialogue box. Since we only made adjustments in the Basic Panel, we are only going to check the boxes next to “Basic Tone” and “Clarity” but you should feel free to check whichever boxes you need to!

In addition however, be sure to check the box next to “Process Version” because that we are using the same Process Version on all of the images selected in our catalog, and we don’t want to accidentally get bumped back to one of the older process versions. Once you are done selecting all of the develop settings, click on “Synchronize” at the bottom right of the dialogue box. This will take the settings from the main highlighted image (the one currently displayed) in our selection and automatically sync those same settings over the remaining images selected.

The Auto Sync Button

When we enable Auto Sync, any adjustments we make to our main image in the selection will automatically be applied to all of the remaining images selected. (With the exception of brushes and gradients; these will not be applied to all subsequent images and must be Sync’d manually.)

With Auto Sync enabled, we are basically batch processing all our selected images simultaneously! For example, if we adjust Exposure down to -4 on one of the images, the remaining 4 images in our selection will also have an exposure of -4. As you can see below, all images in our selection have an exposure of -4. If we click on the Reset Button, next to the Auto Sync Button, this will reset the settings on all of the images in our selection.

When is Auto Sync Useful?

The Auto Sync feature is just another way to batch process images inside the Develop Module in Lightroom 4. If we have a handful of images shot in the same scene with the same camera settings, we can enable Auto Sync, make all of our adjustments at once, and then un-select the group and make any final individual changes separately.

As always, our goal with post-production is to minimize repetitive adjustments.  If you need to make the same adjustment to multiple images, you should always avoid making that adjustment twice!  Just perform the adjustment once on all the images using Auto-Sync, or perform the adjustment on a single image and then sync it to every other image that needs that adjustment.

Conclusion & Learn More!

There are several different ways to move develop settings from one image to another. In our “How to Use the Previous and Reset Buttons in Lightroom 4” tutorial, we demonstrated how to batch process using the Previous Button. We can also use the Copy/Paste Buttons, demonstrated in our “How to Use the Copy and Paste Buttons in Lightroom 4” tutorial, to batch process our images as well. The Sync and Auto Sync Buttons we discussed in this tutorial are another great way to batch process images.

There are all sorts of different options out there when it comes to batch processing, so customize and use whatever system works best with your workflow. At Lin & Jirsa Photography, we typically apply settings to a specific image in the scene and then use the Sync feature to sync across the entire scene. The rapid efficiency of these batch processing techniques allows us to cull and edit over 1,000 images an hour in Lightroom 4. We then make minor adjustments as we go through each image independently.

We hope you enjoyed this article and video excerpt from the Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD. Stay tuned for our next article and episode!

The Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD is a 14 hour video workshop turning any Lightroom novice into a complete master of Lightroom 4 in no time! The Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop can be purchased by itself, or within the Lightroom 4 Workshop Collection which also contains our award winning and industry standard Lightroom 4 Preset System, as well as the Lightroom 4 Workflow System.

The post How to Use the Sync and Auto Sync Functions to Batch Process Images in Lightroom 4 – From the Lightroom 4 A to Z Workshop on DVD appeared first on Free Photography Tips Tutorials Reviews and Wordpress Themes.